With several Brazilians in the A rows, the Paris shows ended this Tuesday (7), showing some of the trends for the autumn-winter 2023-2024. The minimalism of the forms is accompanied by a lot of black, flower prints, technology, including changing the colors of the clothes according to the light.
After a difficult period for Balenciaga, which at the end of last year was accused of pedophilia because of advertisements with children and sadomasochistic objects, the brand preferred to bet on cleaner shapes and classic tones, such as black, in addition to blazers, one of the key pieces of the next season. A walk through several decades were also seen on the catwalks, such as Dior in the 1950s; Saint Laurent, 1980s; Balmain revisiting its archives and Chanel, whose starting point for the collection was the iconic white camellia.
Technology was already part of other brands, such as Anrealage, which mixes fashion and sci-fi, and Coperni, which after making a dress with jets of paint on Bella Haddid’s body, in the last collection, has now taken robots to the catwalk.
See some of the Paris Fashion Week shows
saint laurent
A Yves Saint Laurentnow led by the Belgian Anthony Vaccarello, paid homage to the femininity coming from the men’s wardrobe created by its founder, with blazers with wide shoulder pads contrasting with more tapered and tight pieces, such as skirts and blouses, in an elegant and chic minimalism.
Paco Rabanne
And if we are going to talk about eras, the 1960s could not be missing from the tribute that Paco Rabanne paid to its creator, who died on February 3 of this year, in France. Even the iconic dress assembled with disks and metal rings, created in 1967, was taken to the runway by creative director Julien Dossena, who also worked with prints inspired by the surrealism of Salvador Dalí’s paintings, also Spanish like Rabanne. During the presentation, a recording was played with the stylist’s voice, in which he said: “The role of clothing is to enchant, to provoke love in others, the love that is the main driving force of any activity”.
Balmain
Designer Olivier Rousteing paid homage to Pierre Balmain, creator of the brand, and reviewed the Maison’s archives, betting on pearls, embroidered powders, shine and silhouettes that go back to the 1940s and 1950s, creating wonderful fashion architectural forms. All with a touch of sophistication, in extravagant tailoring and haute couture. In colors, both black and white, and red, green, pink.
dior
The 1950s were the focus of the Dior show, focusing on three women of that era: Catherine Dior, the designer’s sister, who was a member of the resistance during the war; and singers Édith Piaf and Juliette Gréco, for the autumn-winter 2023-2024 collection. According to the brand, they shared an independent spirit that guided their choices, subverting post-war female stereotypes. Stylist Maria Grazia Chiuri also opted for flower prints from the maison’s archive, reinterpreted in different textures and threads. Many with a black background, one of the current trends. Checks were also part of the print chart.
Chanel
A Chanel, whose creative direction is in the hands of Virginie Viard, has also revisited its archives and departed from the white camellia to create its collection with looks, such as traditional suits or dresses and coats with the flower print. The flower was first used by Chanel 100 years ago, in 1923
Balenciaga
After the worldwide cancellation due to accusations of pedophilia, due to advertisements with children and sadomalist elements, such as a teddy bear bag dressed with such objects, Balenciaga, commanded by Demna Gvasalia, seems to want a fresh start. Therefore, the fashion show with looks bordering on minimalism. Of course, a minimalism in the style practiced by the stylist, in which nothing is too close to the body and there is no lack of overlaps. Flowers on a black background were also present. “It’s the perfect collection to start with, after all the drama, to underline what my values as a designer are: clothes and confection; they always have been”, wrote the creative director on his social networks. Yes, going back to the basics and fundamentals of the brand. Let’s hope.
coperni
Coperni, who made the spray dress on Bella Haddid in the past shows, is now freely inspired by the fable “The Wolf and the Lamb” by Jean de la Fontaine, and took the “Spot®” robots from the American company Boston Dynamics, to the catwalk, interacting with the models. “Unlike the original fable written in the 17th century, which raises questions related to the balance of power between the human groups that make up society, Coperni reinterprets history and transposes it to the year 2023 with a positive vision of the future.” , wrote the brand on its social networks.
On the catwalk, a modern minimalism, with many black pieces and some cutouts.
Realage
Japanese designer Kunihiko Morinaga, founder of Anrealage, also bet on technology to show his autumn-winter 2023-2024 collection. With photosensitive fabrics, white looks, for example, gain color according to the light they receive. Pristine white looks, like a satin gown with a giant crochet collar and pleated skirt, a lace jumpsuit, or a sculpted faux fur dress, as well as velvet cocoon coats and petal-neck dresses, shift into another tonal range. , thanks to the photosensitive colors that were conceived to evolve through the days and seasons, coexisting with nature and the environment”, he wrote in the caption of the photo. That is, as the daylight changes, the color of the clothes will also change modifying or prints begin to appear.The pieces return to their natural color after three minutes without exposure to sunlight.[emapostounatecnologiaparamostrarsuacoleçãooutono-inverno2023-2024ComtecidosfotossensíveislooksbrancosporexemploganhamcordeacordocomaluzquerecebeLooksbrancosimaculadoscomoumvestidodecetimcomumagolagigantedecrochéesaiaplissadaummacacãoderendaouumvestidoesculpidodepelesfalsasbemcomocasacosdecasulodeveludoevestidoscomgolapétalasmudamparaoutragamatonalgraçasàscoresfotossensíveisqueforamconcebidasparaevoluiratravésdosdiaseestaçõescoexistindocomanaturezaeomeioambiente”escreveunalegendadafotoOusejaconformealuzdodiavaimudandoacordaroupatambémvaisemodificandooucomeçaaaparecerestampasAspeçasvoltamàsuacornaturaldepoisdetrêsminutossemexposiçãoàluzsolar
